Lagos is a place that cannot be explained to those who haven’t been there and when mentioned to those who have, the only reply is a knowing laugh and pat on the back for surviving. Like most enjoyable things Lagos is bad for you and highly addictive. If we were to save our minds and any money, we should have left straight away. But as none of us really wanted to go our best bet was to take a break.
I should also mention that the dynamic of our group has at this point changed somewhat. Sarah who had made great friends with Ant and Martina (or mum and dad as they became known at the camp sight) had strangely decided to leave us, for them. Why she did that, we can’t even begin to imagine, but to add to the confusion we had also been joined by Dorrein, Jag’s Dutch beach romance from Illis Cias. Things for Jag and Dorrein went well a little while, but before too long there were no sparks left and the two became, I guess you could say uncomfortable friends, leaving us with a extra traveler for the next week.
I think alcohol had some part in the decision, we didn’t have many euros and traffic was anything but predictable, but I’m so glad we did it! We hired scooters and with the plan to ride them to the end of the earth! We loaded up our trusty chariots with all we would need for the arduous journey, said goodbye to all we knew, and west we traveled. We would ride as far as we would need to until there was no more land, until our trusty steeds could go no further… lucky the trip was only about 35kms! The scooters aren’t very comfy
Sagres was our destination. King Henry “the Navigator” once stood on these cliffs and said to his men “ I need a slash, if only there was a fort here so I could” and so a fort was built. Then from inside his fort he looked across the waters and said to his students “out there, there is no more land!… maybe”.
When the Earth was thought flat Sagres was considered the edge. It’s a really cool feeling standing there, watching the sun set over the waters that many men have feared. They were convinced sea creatures and monsters would kill them and sink their boat if they dared sail. I have seen so many sunsets but this one stands on its own.
We stood there and watched and took many photos. So breathtaking that we had forgotten to organise accommodation. It was getting dark and the wind was getting stronger. We road to the camping ground, a five minute ride out of town but of course reception was shut. The scooters would not give us shelter like our trusty VanDamme. It was already pitch black and getting cold.
What did we do? What else could we do? We went to the pub!
After a few quiet lagers we spoke in very poor Portuguese to the bargirl and told her of our predicament and asked for some advice. She told us of a beach, a magical beach, where marijuana grows free and there are no laws! We explained that we had already seen that movie and that yes Leonardo did do a good job, but we needed a place to stay for the night. She then pointed us in the direction of another beach just over the road, no marijuana, but a dark cave we could use as shelter. Although sleeping on the beach is illegal in Portugal, the path to the this beach takes you down 150 steps and the local police have no interest in exercising.
She was right! There was a cave and it was very sheltered. But she was wrong about the steps, there were more like 250! Quite an effort in the dark after a few,. But it was warm, out of the wind and in a large cove with a great view. We could see the light house out on the point cutting through the clouds and a very tranquil feeling over came us. That was until we noticed floating green lights bobbing up and down about 100 meters from the entrance of the cave. First four, then six, then they all disappeared and reappeared one by one in different spots slightly closer. After our imaginations ran on for a minute we came to the conclusion it was night fisherman, or aliens, neither of which we could or should do anything about. So with the calming sound of the waves and the occasional paranoid glance at the lights we drifted off to sleep on a mattress of sand.
To be continued…